Thus began my longing for quality coats - not ones which I will only wear for a season or two, but ones I will treasure for years and years to come.
The Burberry trench coats are the epitome such coats.
Origin
The origin of the trench coat, as the name might suggest, is closely related to warfare. Before the invention of light, breathable and waterproof textiles by John Emary (founder of Aquacutum, the other fashion house which specialises in top quality trench coats) and Thomas Burberry (in 1879 he invented 'garbadine'), the British forces have been wearing long wool overcoats ('greatcoats') since the Crimean War of the 1850s.
Those were made of a thick woolen material which was warm but heavy and unwieldy. In the trenches, the greatcoats proved to be a liability: their lengths meant they became caked with mud, rain made them even heavier than they already were, and anyone who has rugged themselves up in a great wool coat would appreciate how they restrict movement - and we're only carrying bags and everyday items, not guns and maps!
By World War I, there was an increasing recognition that the 'greatcoats' are ill-suited to many landscapes and the reality of trench warfare. Trench warfare required something lighter, water-resistant and well-ventilated. The trench coat proved perfect - though let's be clear, they were not issued en masse to all soldiers: they were for the high-ranking officers, hence the epaulets.
It is hotly debated between Burberry and Aquascutum as to who invented the trench coat, as both houses had strong ties to the British military. Burberry's claim may be slightly stronger, as in 1912 Burberry patented a predecessor to the trench coat called 'Tielocken'.
Anatomy and Design
Apart from seasonal trench coats, Burberry currently sells 4 styles of 'heritage trenches' for women, with the same basic anatomy that hails back to their origin in WWI, but differ in terms of cuts. The Westminster is the most classic cut, and the more modern 'heritage trenches' are cut more narrowly to be more flattering. In order of increasing slimness of cut, the other three styles are the Kensington, the Sandringham and the Chelsea.
The coat pictured below is a cashmere mid-length trench coat in the Kensington style.
- Double breast: although many trench coats come in the single-breasted style nowadays, the classic trench has double breast with 10 button closures. Double-breasted closure ensures that the wearer is protected from the wind, regardless of the direction of the wind.
- Pockets: deep and with button closure, these were highly practical during WWI - they were used to hold maps, binoculars and other essentials.
- As the trench coat was for high-ranking officers, the epaulets on the shoulders allowed the rank of the wearer to be displayed.
- Collar with hook and eye closure: not only is this feature important for warmth, they also allowed gas masks to be shielded so as to become airtight.
- Storm flap: the extra bit of fabric across one chest prevents rainwater from seeking into the coat.
- Belt and sleeve loops: to fasten the coat for extra warmth and dryness.
- D-ring: strictly ornamental and to be frank, quite annoying nowadays, the D rings on the belt do not appear on many trench styles because they prevent the belt from being easily adjusted. Back in the days, however, they were used to carry swords and grenades.
- Storm shield: the extra bit of fabric at the shoulder on the back was used for ventilation, though nowadays they are mostly sown shut.
- Cut bottom: the slit at the bottom of the coat allows for easier, freer movement.
- D rings: so many D-rings, so annoying.
Modern trench coats come in a variety of style and material. The below trench coats are in garbadine. When water gets on the surface of the fabric, it forms little droplets and rolls right off, instead of seeking into the fabric.
Score: 5 / 5 would recommend.
Cost: I don't want to talk about it.
